Reading product labels or scanning them with apps like Yuka or INCI Beauty, can quickly feel overwhelming. The ingredient names are long, the scores can be confusing, and sometimes it’s hard to know what really matters.

That’s because I, Anna - the founder of Nuvola - don’t just follow vague “clean” beauty trends, which, let’s be honest, can mean wildly different things depending on who you ask. Instead, I curate products based on the COSMOS standard, a well-established certification that only allows ingredients proven to be safe for both people and the planet.

Apps like Yuka can be helpful, but they often oversimplify pretty complex things.

For example, essential oils (and their derivatives) sometimes get flagged because they can be allergenic for some, not because they’re unsafe. And ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate in shampoos. Yes, it’s a sulphate, but when derived from natural sources and balanced with gentle ingredients like betaine, it can actually work well, especially for oily scalps. It’s a bit like adding chili to your meal: too much is harsh, but in the right dose, it’s exactly what’s needed.

That’s how I think about cosmetic formulas: it's about balance, intention and actives ingredient that work. Still, there are some ingredients I never allow, either because they’re harmful to our health, to the environment, or often both.

What You Won’t Find at Nuvola (and Why)

Sulfates (SLS, SLES)

What I avoid:

  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate
  • Sodium Laureth Sulphate
  • Synthetic Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

These foaming agents are just too harsh. Over time, they can strip the skin (or scalp) and weaken its protective lipidic barrier. However, not all sulphates made the same, Coco-Sulphate and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (derived from natural sources) are allowed by COSMOS standard and in fact, can give an oily skin that good cleanse it deserves.

Cationic Polymers

What I avoid:

  • Polyquaternium-7, -10, -37
  • Quaternium-91

These ingredients are common in semi-natural or so-called “professional” haircare lines. While they do smooth and condition, the downside is serious: they pollute waterways and harm small marine organisms, key parts of delicate food chains, much like silicones do. In the end, that’s just not worth the trade-off.

PEGs & Ethoxylated Ingredients

What I avoid:

  • PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols)
  • Laureth-7, Ceteareth-12, Oleth-20, Isoceteth-20
  • Polysorbates

PEGs aren’t considered toxic on their own, but the problem lies in how they’re made. They can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide, both linked to cancer. On top of that, PEGs act as penetration enhancers, meaning that if they’re paired with harmful ingredients, your skin absorbs more of the bad stuff. Over time, they can also weaken the skin barrier, leaving it more vulnerable.

Mineral Oil & Petroleum Byproducts

What I avoid:

  • Mineral Oil
  • Petrolatum
  • Paraffinum Liquidum
  • Microcrystalline Wax
  • Ceresin
  • Vaseline (yes, the Vaseline you might've seen on pharmacy shelves!)
  • Ozokerite

These ingredients are cheap occlusives. However, when not properly purified, they can contain MOAHs (mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons), which are recognized carcinogens. which are recognized carcinogens. And unlike botanical butters or waxes that actually nourish the skin, mineral-derived occlusives simply sit on top, creating a temporary barrier. That might feel soothing if your skin barrier is damaged, but the moment you wash them off, the protective effect disappears too.

Cheap Synthetic Preservatives and Other Additives

What I avoid:

  • Phenoxyethanol (allowed with restrictions)
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone (Kathon)
  • DEA (banned in the EU)
  • TEA & MEA (restricted)
  • BHT & BHA (allowed with restrictions)
  • EDTA (not a preservative, but often used with them)

Even though some of these are technically legal at low doses, that doesn’t mean they’re gentle or good for your skin. They’re often used because they’re cheap and effective against a wide range of bacteria, fungi, and yeast. But they also come with a higher risk of irritation, especially for children, aging skin, or anyone dealing with sensitivities or a compromised barrier. Personally, I think there are much better, safer options out there, so I stick with those.

Microplastics 

What I avoid:

  • Acrylates Copolymer (AC)
  • Acrylates Crosspolymer (ACS)
  • Polyamide (PA, Nylon)
  • Polyacrylate (PA)
  • Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)
  • Polyquaternium-7
  • Polyethylene (PE)
  • Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)
  • Polypropylene (PP)
  • Polystyrene (PS)
  • Polyurethane (PUR)

These are often added to improve texture or create that “silky” feel, but they don’t break down and end up polluting water systems. Microplastics, especially so-called liquid microplastics, which are invisible to the human eye, are linked to aquatic pollution. They accumulate in rivers, lakes, and oceans, bind to other toxins, and when consumed by small water organisms, can pass these chemicals up the food chain to larger species and eventually to humans.

Formaldehyde & Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives

What I avoid:

  • DMDM Hydantoin
  • Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea
  • Quaternium-15
  • Bronopol, Bronidox
  • Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
  • Methenamine, Hydantoin

These ingredients slowly release formaldehyde, which is both a known allergen and a carcinogen. Even if they’re technically “approved,” I avoid them.

Chemical UV Filters

I only allow mineral UV filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—including nano forms, which are now permitted under COSMOS standards. These filters are widely considered safe, non-toxic, and reef-friendly. In contrast, older chemical filters have often been linked to hormonal disruption and reproductive harm, while the so-called “new generation” UV filters are still too new and not well-studied enough to rely on, that’s why you won’t find them in the Nuvola range.

 Talc 

Talc is a natural mineral, but if not carefully processed, it can contain asbestos, which is a known carcinogen. I avoid it entirely, especially in powder-based makeup or anything that could be inhaled or applied near mucous membranes.

Artificial Colourants and Dyes 

CI11680 (yellow), CI15800 (Red 7 Lake), CI24790 and many-many others. Synthetic dyes are derived from coal tar or petroleum. Some can build up in the body or release aromatic amines, which are linked to cancer and other health issues. Natural mineral pigments and botanical colours are a safer, beautiful alternate. 

Parabens

Methylparaben, Propylparaben and others that end with -paraben. These preservatives are hormone disruptors and have been linked to reproductive harm and breast cancer.

Phthalates

What I avoid:

  • DEP
  • DBP
  • DEHP

Often hidden under “fragrance” in perfumes and candles, or used in nail polishes, phthalates are linked to hormone disruption and developmental problems. I only work with brands that are fully transparent about their fragrance blends or provide proof they’re phthalate-free.

Clean, Conscious, and Transparent

This list isn’t just about what I avoid, it’s a reflection of what I believe in: better and effective ingredients = better health and better choices for the planet. Every product I carry is held to these standards because you deserve full transparency and real peace of mind.