If you’re on a quest for clear, even-toned skin but haven’t found the right ingredient yet, azelaic acid might be the unsung hero you’re missing. This versatile, multi-functional acid provides a gentler alternative to stronger treatments while still delivering impressive results over time. Let’s break down what makes it special and how you can incorporate it into your routine.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that helps address a range of skin concerns, from acne to hyperpigmentation. Unlike stronger exfoliants, it works gradually but effectively, making it a great option for sensitive skin. A related compound, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (a derivative of azelaic acid and glycine), offers similar benefits, including soothing irritation, reducing redness, regulating oil production, and brightening the skin.
Why You Should Consider Using Azelaic Acid
1. Fights Acne Without Being Harsh
- Inhibits the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria responsible for acne)
- Helps unclog pores and prevent breakouts
- Reduces inflammation associated with acne
2. Reduces Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation
- Slows down melanin production, making it effective for post-acne marks and melasma
- Works well alongside ingredients like vitamin C or retinoids for enhanced brightening, but these ingredients should be used at different times to prevent irritation.
3. Calms Redness and Irritation
- Anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for those with rosacea or sensitive skin
- Soothes inflamed acne and reduces overall skin redness
4. Improves Skin Texture Gently
- Offers mild exfoliation without the irritation of stronger acids
- Smooths out rough patches and uneven skin texture
5. Provides Antioxidant Protection
- Shields skin from environmental stressors and free radicals
- Helps maintain a healthier, more resilient skin barrier
How to Use Azelaic Acid Based on Your Skin Concerns
For Acne-Prone Skin
- Concentration: 10–15%
- Usage: Apply once or twice daily after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer
- Best Pairing: Works well with niacinamide for extra calming effects
For Redness and Rosacea
- Concentration: 10–20%
- Usage: Use morning and/or evening to reduce inflammation and soothe skin
- Important: Always apply SPF in the morning
For Hyperpigmentation
- Concentration: 10–20%
- Usage: Apply once a day (preferably at night) to fade dark spots
- Best Pairing: Can be combined with vitamin C or retinoids for faster results
For Oily and Combination Skin
- Concentration: 5–10%
- Usage: Helps regulate oil production and prevent clogged pores
Best Practices: Morning vs. Evening Use
Morning Routine
- Controls inflammation and prevents breakouts throughout the day
- Always follow with SPF 30 or higher, as azelaic acid can make skin more sun-sensitive
Evening Routine
- Helps with skin regeneration and pigmentation reduction
- Best combined with hydrating and soothing ingredients to balance the skin
Precautions and Tips
- Mild tingling or irritation is normal initially but should subside with continued use
- Avoid layering with high concentrations of AHAs or BHAs to prevent over-exfoliation
- Always wear sunscreen when using azelaic acid to protect against sun sensitivity
The Bottom Line
Azelaic acid is one of those ingredients that works quietly but effectively over time. Whether you’re struggling with acne, redness, or stubborn dark spots, it offers a well-rounded solution without the harshness of stronger treatments. If you’re patient and consistent, it can be a game-changer for your skin. Ready to give it a try?